Our day in and around Custer included Jewel Cave, Crazy Horse Memorial, Mt. Rushmore, and a foray into Custer State Park. Frank and Albert Michaud discovered Jewel Cave in 1900 when they noticed some vigorously moving bushes on the side of a mountain. Ever the explorers, they climbed up to the area and found air spewing from a small hole. After trying and failing to climb into it, they returned to their dad’s ranch for some helpful dynamite, and used it to blow a hole large enough to enter. Typical boys. They described the glittering calcite lining the walls of the cave as “jewels,” but realized it had little monetary value, unless they could turn it into a tour, which they did. Theodore Roosevelt declared the cave a national monument in 1908 and bought it from the Michaud’s for $750. We took the 1.5 hour scenic tour and were treated to 723 stairs, and astonishing displays of nailhead spar, dogtooth spar, popcorn, flowstone, and draperies, including the aptly named “cave bacon.” Our guide was an enthusiastic, young, beaded storyteller, who obviously loved his job (and was very good at it). Next, on to the Crazy Horse Memorial, which after more than 60 years appears to be barely started. The money comes from the “interested public,” and I guess it isn’t coming very fast. However, they have managed to build a huge Indian museum, restaurant and several gift shops, within which many “Indians” sell jewelry and other beaded work. In contrast, 5,750-foot tall Mt. Rushmore, funded by the U.S. government, was finished in just 14 years. The total cost was slightly less than $1,000,000. No major injuries and no deaths occurred, which is pretty amazing, because these 400 workers were suspended from the mountain front in insubstantial swingy chairs and were routinely handling dynamite, which was used to carve 90% of the president’s heads. The sculptor, Gutzon Borglum, constructed a 1/12-scale model in his on-site studio and used a “pointing” system with plumb bobs to create his masterpiece. The entire sculpture is carved into granite – with an estimated rate of erosion of 1 inch every 10,000 years - so they should be around for a long, long time. Our next stop of the day was in Custer State Park, where we hiked around Sylvan Lake. Austere granite peaks are reflected in the lake’s mirrored surface, surrounded by cat-tails, pines, and wildflowers. And then our final stop for the day, the Naked Winery. Here we tasted 8 wines for $5, and I proved once again that I am an extreme lightweight. Stacie had to drive us back to the hotel.
